More and more climbing gyms are offering a large number of pinches, slopers, and volumes. Those are widely used in modern-style bouldering and lead competitions. Campus Board Pinches give you the widest range of various exercises to reach the next level of your pinch and finger strength!
Legendary German climber Wolfgang Güllich invented the Campus Board in 1988 while he was training for the storied, that time new route, Action Directe, 9a, in Frankenjura. In that time, 9a grade did not exist, and Action Directe was just a route of a level much above one of those days climbing society, far harder than anything else. Güllich built the first Campus Board in the world at a gym called The Campus Center at the University Erlangen-Nürnberg, hence the name. Using his invention, he increased his fingers’ dynamic strengths to the previously unseen level and successfully sent Action Directe on the 16th of September 1991.
“Pinch strength is hard to gain and easy to ignore … until you need”, said famous British climber and coach, Neil Gresham in his paper published recently in Rock and Ice magazine. According to him, while elite boulderers seem to be able to crush the most marginal sloping features, many sport and trad climbers lag behind in this respect, and favor routes and problems with incut holds. With sloper strength and pinch strength linked, since most slopers require the use of the thumb, many climbers are weak in both. Conversely, training in either improves the other.